Hong Kong Temple Food & Family: A Vegan Journey Home

Explore the heart of Hong Kong through monastic culinary heritage.
A journey of family, memory, and the vegan roots of my favorite childhood recipes.

In this post, I’m sharing my recent trip to Hong Kong, exploring the traditional temple food that became the foundation for my vegan recipes.

Chinese Version : Rice Bowl Tales
中文版本：Rice Bowl Tales

Home Is Never Far; It Lives Where the Heart Returns.

Returning Home

There are places we leave for a long time, yet never truly depart. For me, Hong Kong is more than my birthplace; it is a tapestry where memory, family, and time are gently woven together.

As I sat in the aeroplane cabin gazing at the sunset, my mind was a whirl of emotions. The closer we flew, the more a nervous trepidation took hold. It felt as though I had only just left yesterday. 

My husband gave my elbow a gentle nudge: “It’s time to get off,” he whispered.

My sister was there to pick us up. We slipped effortlessly back into conversation, as if we had never been apart. We chatted incessantly until we reached the hotel, immediately making plans to visit Western Monastery in Tsuen Wan the following day, to offer incense and pay respects at my parents’ memorial tablets.

Visiting Temples in Lo Wai Village, Tsuen Wan

Tsuen Wan is home to a vast cluster of Buddhist, Taoist, and Confucian temples nestled within the 300-year-old Lo Wai Village. Established during the Qing Dynasty, the village is renowned for its monasteries, including Western Monastery and Tung Po Tor.

My parents were initiated into the Buddhist precepts at Tung Po Tor. However, when my mother passed away, the monastery was undergoing renovations and could not accommodate new memorial tablets. We turned to the neighbouring Western Monastery instead. By a stroke of luck, we ran into my former colleague, Mr. Ching, who was on duty. With his help, everything was settled smoothly. Knowing my parents would be enshrined there brought immense comfort to our grieving hearts.

Every visit brings an indescribable sense of peace; the lush, elegant grounds offer a rare clarity of mind.

Taste of Childhood: The Art of Temple Food

After paying our respects, we followed our tradition of heading to the Yuen Yuen Institute for a vegetarian lunch. Since it was just the three of us, we ordered simple childhood favourites: layered bean curd rolls, sweet and sour gluten, braised tofu with mushrooms, and ginger vegetable fried rice.

I remember being a young girl in Hong Kong when I first tasted the handmade bean curd rolls my parents brought home. They were so delicate, tender, and scrumptious; we loved them. My mum told us their Shifu (a venerable nun) had made them. That flavour, and the way my mum told us the story of how they were created, has stayed with me forever. (I have previously shared my own recipe for these bean curd vegan chicken and duck). 

The history of Monastic Cuisine is well-documented, dating back 1,500 years to Emperor Wu of Liang, who established the foundation for Buddhist vegetarianism. By the Tang and Song Dynasties, it evolved into a popular healthy lifestyle, eventually leading to the elaborate ‘mock meat’ dishes made from gluten and tofu that we still enjoy in temple kitchens today.

Reunions and Shared Tables

Though this trip was short, the time with loved ones was precious. My eldest brother flew in from the US to spend time with us, we went to yum cha in the morning. And later, my fourth brother and his wife joined us from Mainland China. Together with my sister’s family, we shared a noisy, warm reunion dinner at Gaia Veggie Shop in the Pioneer Centre on Nathan Road, Prince Edward.

The following day, my nephew and niece took us to Chi Lin Nunnery in Diamond Hill. Surrounded by high-rises, this wooden architectural marvel feels like a “pure land” within the city.

We enjoyed an exquisite meal at Chi Lin Vegetarian restaurant, hidden behind a waterfall, where the menu is full of delicious, artfully prepared dishes.

Throughout the week, the reunions continued.

My dear friend Yvonne always insists on taking me out to dinner whenever I’m back in Hong Kong. This time, she treated me to an exquisite vegan lunch at the new Hong Kong Jockey Club Clubhouse. We spent hours lost in conversation, catching up on old times and everything in between; when it came time to say goodbye, it was hard to part ways.

I met some old classmates for dim sum; everyone is as well as ever, and we talked and laughed the morning away. That bond, stretching back to our youth, is truly precious.

We also explored Emerald, an amazing vegan restaurant in Central, with my husband’s cousin; it is such a creative spot, blending fusion with traditional vegan dishes.

A Final Thought: The Flavour of Home

Between these heartwarming gatherings, my husband and I carved out quiet moments for ‘one cup, two pieces’ of dim sum, a simple tofu clay pot at a local café, or a few traditional vegan stir-fries. For us, every meal was a delicious trip down memory lane.

The time flew by, and all too soon, it was time to head back. Though the trip was hurried, my heart is full. This journey reminded me that while places change and time moves on, family love, deep friendships, and the familiar flavours of home remain our ultimate anchors. I look forward to the next time I can return, hopefully for longer, and with my children by my side.

The Heart’s Harvest :

True nourishment isn’t just found in the food on the table, but in the love of the people sitting around it.