Beyond the Red City : A 6-Day Marrakech Travel Diary & Itinerary
It began, as the best adventures often do, with family.
Back in March, our son and daughter-in-law flew to the UK from LA for work and meetings, and together with our daughter and her boyfriend, they drove up to Wales to see us for Mother’s Day. We spent such a wonderful time together.
So when the chance came to see them again in May, this time in Morocco where they were staying, we didn’t think twice. Marrakech was calling.
Day One: A Sanctuary in the Medina
The driver from our pre-booked transfer met us at the airport and drove us to our accommodation. We stayed at the Riad Andallaspa, hidden away in the historic Medina, a UNESCO World Heritage site enclosed by ancient city walls. The surrounding area is bustling, packed with vibrant souks, while the legendary Jemaa el-Fnaa Square is only a short eight-minute walk.
Stepping into the riad itself felt like entering another world. Behind an unassuming entrance gate lay a beautiful ornate courtyard filled with intricate Moroccan tile work, a serene emerald plunge pool, and the sweet scent of orange blossom in the air. After navigating the exhilarating swirl of the Medina’s winding streets and tangled alleyways, where centuries of history are woven into every corner, returning here each evening felt like a peaceful anchor.
Once we refreshed from our travels, we went up to the riad’s rooftop restaurant for dinner. The staff welcomed us with incredible warmth and attentiveness. The food was superb, exquisitely prepared, authentic Moroccan cuisine; and the evening lights over the Medina perfectly matched the peaceful surroundings. With the air feeling cool and comfortable, we fell in love with the place at first sight.
Day Two: Into the Heart of the Medina
Our daughter-in-law Sylvia had planned every detail of our itinerary, so from the moment we arrived, we knew we were in excellent hands.
After breakfast, we began by finding our feet in the Medina, exploring winding lanes, hidden plazas, and the rhythm of everyday life.
The Ben Youssef Madrasa, an Islamic college originally founded in the 14th century, offered a breathtaking contrast.
Its grand central atrium, carved cedar, and hypnotic zellij tile work left us completely in awe, inviting us to simply slow down and absorb the artistry.
Next door, the Marrakech Museum offered a cool, reflective stop and a beautiful window into the city’s creative heritage.
Afterwards, we headed to the charming 11 12 Teahouse for a welcome tea break and an elegant yet authentic cultural experience.
Lunch brought us to Le Jardin.
A lush oasis tucked away behind a modest door. We ate beneath trailing bougainvillea and banana palms, savouring fragrant tagines while birdsong replaced the vibrant clamour of the souks just metres away.
Later, we wandered, shopped, and watched the afternoon light turn the city walls a warm shade of rose. In the evening we headed to El Fenn for a rooftop dinner.
As the sun slipped behind the terracotta skyline and the call to prayer echoed across the rooftops, we shared plates of modern and inventive Moroccan dishes and toasted to the days ahead.
Day Three: Gardens, Art & Golden Hour
The next morning, we ventured beyond the Medina walls to Jardin Majorelle, and nothing quite prepares you for the visual impact.
The fashion designer Yves Saint Laurent discovered this garden in the 1960s, becoming instantly captivated by its beauty. He eventually bought the property to save it from hotel developers, turning it into his personal sanctuary for decades.
Walking through it, you can totally understand why he fought so hard to protect it. The grounds are filled with towering cacti, tranquil lily-padded pools, and vibrant magenta bougainvillea tumbling over the pathways, while the famous cobalt blue paint on the buildings contrasted beautifully against the bright Moroccan sky.
Right next door, we enjoyed a relaxed lunch at Villa Majorelle. It was the perfect mid-day escape, offering a lovely outdoor setting, friendly staff, and vibrant, fresh dishes that felt incredibly light and refreshing in the midday heat.
Sylvia then whisked us through the gates of La Mamounia with just 45 minutes to spare before our driver arrived. But what a spectacular 45 minutes it was!
We strolled down palm-lined pathways and past century-old olive groves, soaking in the atmosphere of this legendary hotel that has welcomed everyone from Winston Churchill to rock stars and royalty. While we didn’t have time for tea on this visit, we made a firm promise to return for a proper afternoon. It deserves nothing less
We ended our day at the Pétanque Social Club, arriving just as the sky turned a stunningly warm amber.
Nestled within a large, tree-filled courtyard garden, it serves a Mediterranean-inspired menu crafted from fresh, locally sourced Moroccan produce.
As night fell, candles flickered on the tables and fairy lights cast a soft glow through the branches above. Sharing drinks and dinner in such a cozy, enchanting atmosphere was the perfect way to end a full and happy day.
Day Four: Mountains and Mishaps
We had planned an ambitious day trip through the Atlas Mountains to Ouarzazate and Aït Benhaddou, starting at dawn with our driver and guide, ready for a full day of adventure.
As we travelled, the scenery folded and rose around us in sharp switchbacks, russet cliffs, and remote villages perched on hillsides like carefully placed stones.
Halfway up the climb, a severe bout of motion sickness on my part forced us to turn back. Instead of the grand tour, we spent the afternoon relaxing at our son and daughter-in-law’s place, ordering a takeaway and enjoying a simple, carefree meal together.
Travel doesn’t always go to plan, but thankfully, my family didn’t mind at all. We embraced the chance to recharge, rested up, and looked forward to our next destinations the following day.
Day Five: Museums, Moments, and the Magic of Lalla Zehra Farm
Our morning began at the Dar el Bacha Museum, taking our time to explore its grand courtyards, patterned tiled floors, and rooms that seemed to hold the city’s memory.
I made sure to have my photo taken just outside Bacha Coffee as a keepsake. We didn’t actually make it inside because the wait had stretched to two hours, but that is a promise for next time. I cannot wait to sit there properly and savour a cup of their legendary brew, the small things we missed sometimes became reasons to return.
Then came the afternoon we had been looking forward to the most: Lalla Zehra Farm & Cooking Class. A 45-minute drive carried us from the city’s hum into the peaceful, green countryside.
We were welcomed by two wonderful young teachers, Noura and Kenza, whose warmth and genuine nature set a beautiful tone instantly. The atmosphere was lively, exciting, and filled with laughter. Everyone got along so well that it felt as though we were already old friends.
Together, we layered aromatic spices, learned the slow, generous art of making a proper tagine, and kneaded dough to bake bread for our dinner.
Chatter and laughter flowed effortlessly as afternoon turned into evening. Finally, we all gathered around a long table to enjoy the meal we had just created. It was so fresh and incredibly delicious. I left with that lovely, rare feeling of being both a student and a cherished guest.
I will save the full story, along with the recipes for the tagine, for Part 2. It truly belongs in a chapter of its own.
Day Six: Homeward Bound and What We’ll Remember Most
Marrakech dazzled us with its intricate tile work and fascinated us with an intense, sensory world filled with towering piles of colourful spices, hand-woven carpets, lanterns, and the constant sounds of shouting vendors, clanging metal and scooter engines; the whole glorious chaos. But what we carried home most deeply was the memory of the people. From the team at Riad Andalla Spa to the local shopkeepers, welcoming servers at teahouses and restaurants, to everyone at Lalla Zehra Farm, genuine kindness met us at every turn.
Parts of the Medina are modest and underprivileged, and we saw that reality too. Yet the city felt clean, vibrant, and wonderfully alive. The hospitality was heartwarming, not an act put on for tourists, but simply a reflection of who the people are.
A Note on Navigating Marrakech Safely
We were immensely fortunate to have our son and daughter-in-law with us, who have been in Marrakech for a while. Having them show us around this ancient city was a wonderful treat that made exploring completely seamless.
Because our personal experience was so smooth, we didn’t encounter any trouble at all.
However, through our pre-trip research and reading other travellers’ stories, we learned about a few common hurdles. If you are planning a trip, it helps to enter the Medina with your eyes open. While the majority of the locals are hospitable and welcoming, popular areas do feature pushy street hustlers, from overbearing henna artists to snake charmers hoping for photo fees. Even riad staff often advise visitors not to look visibly lost or ask random passersby for directions, as they may expect a small tip to guide you.
Ultimately, Marrakech is an incredible city to visit. By staying aware, politely but firmly saying “no,” and downloading an offline map before you head out will ensure your trip is just as unforgettable as ours was.
Final Thoughts
This was a beautiful family trip, and Marrakech, with its grace and open-heartedness, will be fondly remembered for a very long time.
Coming in Part 2:
Our full cooking class at Lalla Zehra Farm with Noura and Kenza, step-by-step recipes for our tagine, and a video of our afternoon in the Moroccan countryside.
And next time we’re back? A long coffee at Bacha, a full afternoon at La Mamounia, and maybe, just maybe, the Atlas Mountains all the way to Aït Benhaddou.
Have you been to Morocco? We’d love to hear about it. Drop your memories, recommendations, or questions in the comments below!